Fruitcake: The better butter batter

If you think that the fruitcake sitting on your back shelf is a problem, bear in mind that it could have been much worse. 

Had you been in ancient Rome, you may have been given this oldest-known version instead:  barley mash sprinkled with pine nuts, raisins, and pomegranate seeds.  Not appetizing?  Then there’s always this one from the Middle Ages:  batter with preserved fruits, honey and  spices.

Although this is now beginning to sound like something to wash down with a cup of tea, the batter back then often left something to be desired.  That something was butter.

Abstaining from butter was part of the Catholic fasting practices at that time in countries such as Germany. German-style fruitcake (stollen) therefore began with just these three humble ingredients:  flour, water, and oats.  Since this is not all that different from many kindergarten paste recipes, people eventually protested.

Two such people were Prince Elector Ernst and Duke Albrecht - both rulers of Saxony.  Rather than just sitting around grinding their teeth on this gritty mix, they decided to do something about it.  They dashed off a letter to the Pope, requesting permission to substitute butter for the sometimes-added, always-challenging

turnip oil. 

Permission was denied for many years by many popes.  After Nicholas V (1447-1455), Callixtus III (1455-1458), Pius II (1458-1464), and Paul II (1464-1471) all said No! – finally, Innocent VIII (whose habitual persecutions weren’t all that innocent) said Yes, but…

In what came to be known as the “Butter-Letter,” Pope Innocent VIII took time out from his witch-hunts and inquisitions to declare in writing that the Prince Elector's household could now add the requested butter free of charge, but all others must pay for the privilege.

Perhaps the bitter aftertaste of this reply still lingers enough for some to shun even the better butter batter.

Resources

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruitcake

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stollen

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pope_Innocent_VIII

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_popes

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fasting_and_abstinence_in_the_Roman_Catholic_Church

Copyright December 27, 2010 by Linda Van Slyke   All Rights Reserved